Gutter repair & Gutter cleaning
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Gutter Cleaning Highland Park IL
All Plastic Siding is Not the Same
Installer slides a cut-to-fit, 4-foot-long panel of embossed-shingle siding around a window.
Vinyl is a polymer formed during a chemical do-si-do between ethylene gas and chlorine, which produces a fine white powder called vinyl resin. When it's melted and mixed with different additives, the resulting compound can be as rigid as pipe, as supple as a shower curtain, or durable enough to survive the heavy foot traffic on a kitchen floor.
New, so-called virgin vinyl siding has a greater complement of the key additives that impart flexibility and resistance to UV degradation. Some manufacturers will tout their product as 100 percent virgin (along with a mention of its supposed superiority), but most siding is made with a core of remelted vinyl top-coated with virgin material.
Typically, vinyl siding is extruded through a die, but to produce the deepest patterns and crispest edges, panels must be molded from polypropylene, a more expensive plastic. Molded panels are typically no more than 4 feet long, while vinyl extrusions can be virtually any length.
Rap on a vinyl-sided wall with your knuckles, and it will flex and sound hollow. That's because, in most cases, only a relatively small area of a vinyl panel is actually resting against the sheathing.
A thin panel, or one without support, is more likely to sag over time. The thinnest siding that meets code is .035 inch thick. Premium siding can be .044 to .048 inch, and a few manufacturers sell .055-inch siding. The thicker sidings tend to be stiffer, and therefore more resistant to sagging, but stiffness depends on other characteristics as well.
There are many important elements that go in to keeping a home protected from wind, water and other weather damage, but perhaps no feature is as underappreciated or as important as the gutters. Without properly functioning gutters, a home can suffer significant damage, not to mention the negative ascetic impact clogged or broken gutters have on a home's curb appeal.
It is important, therefore, for homeowners to know the basics of do it yourself gutter repair. While the installation of a new water drainage system for the home may require the assistance of a professional contractor, most simple gutter repairs can be made without such help.
As with any type of project, it is important to plan properly, and to gather the tools you will need to complete the job. When purchasing replacement pieces for worn out or damaged gutters, it is always a good idea to purchase more than you think you will need. Having additional pieces on hand will help you avoid having to run out to the home improvement center in the middle of a job, and those extra pieces can always be stored for later use.
Many of the gutters in use today are the plastic variety, made to easily snap together, and making repair and replacement of individual pieces a great deal easier. It is important, of course, to get a tight fit when replacing those worn out pieces of gutter, and the area around the repair should be inspected after the next rain to ensure that the area is draining properly.
In fact, checking the gutters is something that every homeowner should do on a regular basis. Check the gutter line a day or two after a heavy rain, looking particularly for areas where water has pooled. These pools of water could indicate a leak in the drainage system, and it is important to address these leaks as quickly as possible, before further damage can occur. Keeping on top of the condition of the gutter system, and making needed repairs as soon as a problem is detected, is one of the best ways to keep your important investment protected.
All roof leaks are caused by a flaw in the progression of water flow. Roofing systems are designed so that the water starts at the highest possible point and flows downward to the next highest point, and so on until the water reaches the edge of the roof.
Finding the Leak
Sometimes it can be difficult to locate the exact spot of a leak because the water spot on the ceiling inside your house may not be in the same location as the actual leak in the roof. Water can run down rafters or trusses and show up inside the house a good distance away from the actual source of the problem. The best way to find the true source of the leak is to climb up into the attic and look for water damage on the underside of the roof deck. This should give you the best idea as to the location where repair work will be necessary.
Once the leak has been located, the repair process is fairly simple. Assuming that there is no structural damage and that the roof and decking do not need to be replaced, a little bit of tar, some flashing, and a few roofing nails will take care of most small, annoying leaks.
Leaks in the Roof Surface
If the water is coming in through the flat surface of the deck, there may be some wind damage to a shingle, or one may be split because of a direct blow. Things like branches falling out of a tree can cause these kinds of problems. If you happen to have extra shingles that match the color, the easiest option is to simply replace the damaged shingle.
In many cases, however, homeowners don't have extra shingles just lying around. In this instance, take a small pry bar and carefully remove the 3 or 4 roofing nails that hold down the shingle in question. Be careful not to tear the shingle anymore than it already is. After finding the damaged area, lift the tabs and apply a generous coat of tar underneath the tear, then nail the shingle back down to the deck. Apply a heavy layer of tar directly over the tear and a spot of tar over each nail head. If you were unable to use previous nail holes, make sure you cover these with tar as well. Another thin line of tar on the underside of the shingles that overlap the damaged one prevents ice from backing up under the shingle in the winter. A new shingle has a line of tar on the underside already, but you may have broken this seal when lifting it up to make the repairs, so it's a good idea to apply a little more.
Leaks around Vents
If the leak is coming in from around a chimney or a vent of some kind, then it is likely that the seam where the flashing meets the chimney or vent pipe has developed a gap. This can happen if the caulk that was used begins to dry out, or if the pipe was hit and shifted slightly. In most cases, a fresh coat of tar at this seam will solve the problem.
Occasionally, however, the flashing may have been pierced by a falling tree branch or a wayward footstep, and will need to be replaced. You can buy rolls of aluminum flashing at most home improvement stores, and it is flexible enough to be cut and worked by hand and with a pair of simple tin snips. Gently loosen the shingles that cover the old piece of flashing and remove it. When you tack down the new flashing with roofing nails, be sure to seal around the edges with a generous coat of tar. Lay the shingles back down around the new flashing in the same pattern that they were originally laid and make sure that the flashing is tightly sealed to the pipe or chimney that it protects.
As with all roofing repairs, safety is paramount. Before beginning any roofing project, make sure you have a ladder that is the proper size to reach the area that you are working on. Another thing to briefly consider is footwear. Make sure that your shoes will not be too slippery on the roofing surface. With any job involving some kind of risk, it is always a good idea to have a partner as well. Make a good plan to get yourself out of a sticky situation before you get yourself into it.
Gutter Cleaning Highland Park
Gutter Cleaning Highland Park
Gutter Cleaning Highland Park
4Seasons Gutter Cleaners